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What Saddle Is Best For Me?

Not everyone has the same requirements for comfort, fit, looks, etc.

With that said, the following information is offered in an effort to help you find the most comfort in a saddle for you. The final shape, cover, material, padding is like the color - it is your choice.

1) The more flex the rail of the saddle has, the more comfort

Flex absorbs road vibrations and impacts rather than being passed on to the rider. The most flexible rail material is Titanium (it is also the most expensive.) The least flexible rail material is steel (it is the least expensive.) Cr/Mo, Manganese and Vanox are other materials that vary in flex and price. In addition, the rail should be as long as possible. The longer the rail the more flex and shock absorbing it will be.

Breaking or bending of a rail usually occurs due to incorrect assembly on the seat post or by the seat cradle not allowing flex of the rail and the resulting “stress riser” (Miter the straight cut cradle to avoid stress risers!!!) The saddle should be mounted in the center of the millimeter adjustment scale found on the rail.   From this position, the saddle can be moved forward or aft for a maximum of 10 +/- millimeters. Bent or broken rails can be replaced for $15.00 (Tubular Titanium $30.00) plus $6.00 postage.

2) The base of the saddle should be nylon - not plastic

The flex of the nylon will provide more vibration and shock absorbing than a plastic base. You can see the difference by pushing against the saddle base with your thumb. If it is nylon, the saddle base will move. Plastic will not move. (All SELLE ITALIA saddles are manufactured using nylon composite or nylon/carbon composite.)

3) Padding alone is not enough to judge comfort

Have you ever sat on a pillow or cushion on a bleacher? You will eventually feel the stiff bleacher even with lots of padding. It is the same with a saddle. If the saddle has lots of padding but the base and rail will not flex it will become uncomfortable.

4) Make sure your saddle is adjusted properly

This will take patience. Adjustments can only be done by the rider.

A saddle must be positioned so the rider does not reach too far forward or sit too upright. This cannot be done by sliding your seat forward or aft on the rails more than a few millimeters. (Your saddle should be mounted as close to the center of the rail adjustment as possible.) It may require a different handlebar stem than your bike is currently equipped.

The angle and height of the seat is important as well.

The height of the seat should be adjusted so that your leg is straight out when your heel is resting on the pedal at the bottom reach of the crank. Do not over extend the leg and do not have it curled.

The angle of the saddle should be adjusted to fit "you". If you find yourself getting sore on the "sit" bones, tilt the seat down a little. Try it again and adjust it a little at a time. If you find yourself getting sore in the front soft tissue area, raise the nose a little. Try it again and adjust it a little at a time. Do not go from one extreme to the other. It will not help. (Our experience in talking with and receiving more than 60 phone calls and e-mails a day is “soft tissue” saddles should be tilted up 4 to 10mm’s.)

5) Leather covers do not sweat like synthetic covers

Because leather does not sweat, it causes less friction and less irritation. The leather costs more but it provides more comfort

6) Shape is important!

There are different "shapes" of saddles. Saddles like the SELLE ITALIA SLR, SLK, C2, Lady and Prolink have several riding positions because of the flat area on which the rider sits. Saddles like the SELLE ITALIA FLITE, MAX FLITE, TRIMATIC 2, OKTAVIA and STORIKA are less flat allowing the rider fewer sitting positions. Analyze your riding style so that you ride the saddle that best fits your style of riding. If you move around a lot and ride in several positions, a flat saddle should be more comfortable. If you have a tendency to sit in 1 or 2 positions, a curved saddle should be more comfortable.

Read Choosing a Saddle - Part 2 »»